Salzburg is like a film set. Reclining at the foot of wooded cliffs on the banks of a turquoise river, its baroque-gone-mad Altstadt wings you through a millennium of history, with its jewel box of churches, abbeys, and domes. Everywhere you go, you are forced to look up in wonder: at the whopping hilltop fortress; at lavishly gilded palaces and concert halls where Mozart once performed; at mountains peeking up on the horizon where Maria (Julie Andrews) had her twirlingThe Sound of Musicdebut.