Prince Edward Island, known for Anne of Green Gables and its renowned mussels, is equally celebrated for its serene red sand beaches and stunning ocean views. Having lived on the island for seven years while pursuing my master’s and veterinary degrees, I was fortunate to enjoy the picturesque landscapes featuring red sandstone cliffs, undulating dunes, and tranquil forests. Despite the absence of large wildlife—only coyotes inhabit its wilderness—PEI boasts rich biodiversity, serving as a nesting area for the endangered piping plover.
As Canada’s smallest province, with a population exceeding 146,000, PEI features expansive farmlands known for their potatoes and characteristic red soil, which immediately coats vehicles upon arrival via the 11 km long Confederation Bridge, the world’s longest bridge spanning ice-covered waters in winter. Located in the maritime region of Canada, PEI is positioned close to Nova Scotia and New Brunswick along the eastern coast. The province comprises quaint towns, fishing villages such as North Rustico, and sprawling farmlands, with its popularity primarily attributed to Anne of Green Gables.
The optimal time to visit the island extends from late spring to autumn, as harsh winters can result in bridge and ferry closures. Ferries operate between Pictou, Nova Scotia, and Wood Islands, near Murray River in PEI, and the main airport is located in Charlottetown, providing connections to major urban hubs like Toronto and Halifax.
Charlottetown, the capital, holds historical significance as the birthplace of Canadian Confederation, where a pivotal conference was staged to discuss the unification of Canada. Initially intended as a Maritime Union, the talks evolved into a broader union of British North America, often neglecting the native tribes of the region. To visit the main site, you may head to the Confederation Centre of the Arts in downtown Charlottetown, a national historic site that also hosts a variety of exceptional performances.
Although summers are brief, and winters can be harsh with fierce winds sweeping across the flat terrain, PEI offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities. So, grab an ice cream from Cows and allow me to guide you to the highlights of this gentle island.
Golf
Despite being a point of contention regarding its ecological impact, golf courses abound on PEI. The island features some of the highest-ranked courses in Canada, attracting enthusiasts from around the globe. Visitors can rent golf carts to navigate scenic ocean vistas while enjoying the rhythmic sound of crashing waves during a round at a par 4.
Beaches
PEI’s coastline is a treasure trove of beaches, each with its unique charm and character.
Greenwich
Located on the island’s eastern edge, Greenwich is a well-kept secret and among the least visited beaches within PEI’s National Park. From the parking area, a nature trail leads through the forest to a wooden boardwalk winding through sand dunes and wetlands, revealing an expansive beach. This serene location offers an ideal setting for quiet contemplation and relaxation by the waves.
Brackley
Conversely, Brackley Beach is the island’s most frequented beach. Popular among tourists, it regularly accommodates busloads of visitors. However, a brief five-minute walk will lead one to quieter areas, where solitude can be found amidst nature.
Brackley is also frequented by resident red foxes, known for their playful antics and occasional thievery, making it wise to keep a close watch on personal belongings.
If one travels or bikes to the end of the road, they will discover a popular kite surfing spot, embraced by locals and students. From this point, visitors can continue to a tranquil stretch of beach, which is occasionally cordoned off during summer months to protect piping plover nesting habitats.
Cavendish
Cavendish, likely the second most visited beach, lies centrally among Anne of Green Gables attractions. While bustling with tourists, it offers beautiful scenery and has the nearby Anne of Green Gables museum for exploration.
Despite its status as a tourist hub, the beach remains serene compared to crowded tourist destinations in places like Florida, California, or the Caribbean.
Cavendish is also a fun family destination, offering mini-golf, boardwalk shopping, and amusement rides at Sandspit.
Basin Head Provincial Park
Basin Head is uniquely sandy, characterized by its high silica content that produces a delightful squeak with each step. This beach is popular among the younger demographic, featuring docks for jumping and food vendors. For those seeking solitude, a lesser-known beach lies just before reaching Basin Head, complete with stunning cliff vistas.
This site also serves as a nesting ground for piping plovers, providing a serene setting to appreciate the wind-blown dunes and grasses without crowds. This is my personal favorite way to spend a beach day.
Hiking Opportunities
Despite its modest size, PEI offers a wealth of hiking possibilities. The island’s topography lacks significant elevation changes; hence, hikers seeking challenging terrains with dramatic mountain views might be disappointed.
Confederation Trail
The Confederation Trail, one of the island’s most renowned hiking paths, extends for the majority of PEI’s length. Developed from an abandoned railroad in 1989, this walking and cycling trail spans 435 km. The primary route begins in Tignish and concludes in Elmira at kilometer 273, with various branches weaving through quaint towns and the capital, Charlottetown.
Recognized as a prime geocaching destination, the trail boasts over 1,600 geocache sites for enthusiasts. Along the way, opportunities abound for snacking, camping, and experiencing the island’s sights at a leisurely pace.
Farmlands Trail
This historic 2.7 km loop trail formerly constituted one of PEI’s oldest roads, making it suitable for exploration year-round. The trail shares its starting point with Bubbling Springs Trail, gently winding through scenic farmland before entering a forested area.
The trail leads past the Stanhope Cemetery and an archaeological site, making it a straightforward hike that can be combined with the Bubbling Springs trail, before enjoying a refreshing dip in the ocean at nearby Brackley beach. However, be cautious, as the waters can be notably chilly, particularly during summer when jellyfish are prevalent!
Bubbling Springs
The first time I traversed the Bubbling Springs trail, I found the eponymous “bubbling springs” feature to be underwhelming, resembling merely a large puddle with bubbles emerging from the ground. However, the real gem is Long Pond, renowned for its birdwatching opportunities. A small structure with benches beside the pond offers a peaceful vantage point for observing local avifauna and absorbing the sounds of the surrounding woods.
Greenwich Dunes Trail
This scenic trail guides visitors to Greenwich beach, featuring a 4.8 km round trip walk through enchanting forests, tranquil farmlands, and along a floating boardwalk traversing Bowley Pond, with sand dunes encircling the path. This area is, in my opinion, the most magical place on the island.
Cavendish Dunelands Trail
This 2.3 km one-way trail connects to the homestead trail, providing breathtaking views of the island’s majestic sand dunes and scenic freshwater ponds. It stands out as one of my preferred hiking routes due to its remarkable vistas and serene open spaces.
Homestead Trail
Covering an 8.4 km loop, the Homestead Trail is one of the few moderate-level trails open to bikers, characterized by its flat, compacted dirt surface. Throughout the trail, visitors will encounter stunning ocean views and informative interpretive signage.
Major elevation changes are absent; the nearest being Brookvale, an excellent location for skiing or snowboarding. However, for those accustomed to the heights of the Alps or Whistler, PEI may not suffice. Nevertheless, it remains a premier destination for cross-country skiing, with Souris offering a cozy lodge to warm up and indulge in hot chocolate post-skiing along groomed trails through the woods.
Furthermore, Brookvale features groomed trails that were crafted for a winter games hosted in the area. These include easier trails with relatively flat terrain as well as more challenging routes boasting thrilling descents.
Throughout the island, numerous opportunities for cross-country skiing exist, including the expansive flat landscapes of the Confederation Trail.
Concluding Thoughts
Despite its small size and relative lack of wildlife, PEI rewards visitors with extensive outdoor pursuits. From Charlottetown’s Victoria Park to the enchanting Greenwich beach, the island offers an array of experiences. While Anne of Green Gables may be an icon, the true gem of PEI lies within its stunning natural surroundings.
When your time on the island concludes, consider venturing to Nova Scotia for a chance to explore the Cabot Trail.
